Squeezed between a majestic view of Edinburgh Castle on one side and infamous dancing joints on the other, few pubs in Edinburgh could claim quite such eclectic surrounds as the Blue Blazer. Wrapped around the hind end of Spittal Street, this traditional Whisky and Ale pub manages to straddle not just varying sides of the city, but a vast and variable array of beverages, refreshments and diverse clientele.
A crumpled paper sign abreast the front door reads “Attention American Tourists: We do not have a kitchen. Much love, baseball and liberty.” Another, just as tongue-in-cheek, next to the bar – “We at the Blue Blazer take our drinking very seriously. Anyone who appears to be having fun may be asked to leave the premises.”
Forgive the red-lacquered wallpaper and somewhat worn wooden finishes to succumb to an Edinburgh institution. As you enter, a circular mosaic of the eponymous navy garment charts the pub’s origins all the way back to 1889. The feel of the establishment instantly shuttles you to a time where the public house was more than just a meeting place.
A sturdy wooden bar-top runs on a vertical parallel to the entrance, packed to the rafters with taps and pumps that just about allow the bartender to peak through and greet each punter one-by-one as they enter.
Squeezed in between the pumps is a platter of delectable cheese and crackers, with China plates presumably fresh from a Grandmother’s house clearance stacked high asunder the Fromages. Gruyere and Cranberry Wensleydale were on offer at my visit. Scampi Fries and Bacon Fries are also on offer for the salt-hungry punter.
Whisky and Ale are at the heart of the Blue Blazer’s beverage offerings. As I arrived at my seat I was greeted by an inviting pamphlet advertising a Strong Ale Festival running over three months at the pub. That week’s selection ranging from experimental 10% ABV stouts from 71 Brewing and Brew York, through to staple Scottish Light Ales, with both regular craft pumps and others on rotation. Pints of Dunkel are served in dimpled tankards, adding additional charm through pleasant details.
Behind the bar, no less than eleven shelves of the finest Single Malt and Blended selection greet the eye, with sample-size bottles dotting the wee high shelf above. The discerning reveller might treat themselves to a Dailuaine 16 for a reasonable price.
Two cosy lounge rooms make up the Blue Blazer, one dressed in blue and the other in red. Just cheek by jowl of the doorway between them, a sign advertises the pub’s signature gimmick – ‘Drambola’. Sunday to Wednesday you can take a punt and roll the dice on one of sixty whiskies for just five pounds. I ended up with a Loch Lomond 18 – a honeysuckle, baked apple-palated treat.
Conversation is king in this establishment – a rowdy Stag Do promptly removed from the premises on my visit. Candlelit surrounds and low-set red pleather stools around barrel-shaped tables invite a close-knit experience for its punters. For those who are keen to sit and postulate over the pub experience, or rather eavesdrop on their neighbour’s conversations, the calm and comfortable surrounds will be more than suitable.
It is a pub defined by its’ surrounds in many ways. The complex of streets squished in between Lothian Road and the Grassmarket have long been dealt the hand of being traversed by both the un-weary tourists of the Old Town alongside the more-weary locals of Tollcross and Fountainbridge. While tourist money might be the bread-and-butter of this part of the city, the Blue Blazer’s inalienable and inviting offering comfortably handles both regular and visitor fare alike.
Pub Grade: A+
Directions: Here.
Contact: Here.